Empire State Trail Bike Tours

The Empire State Trail

The Empire State Trail - in a nutshell - can best be described by the image displayed on the signs.  It is a sideways T-shaped route for non-motorized users that include pedestrians and bicycles. There are three branches that radiate outwards from Albany, which is the state capital: the Hudson Valley Greenway Trail, the Champlain Valley Trail and the Erie Canalway Trail. 

All three of these trail concepts have existed for decades, and each trail has had various segments implemented over the years. What this means is that the Empire State Trail is not really a singular bike path that goes across the state as a relatively uniform facility (like what you might see on the Katy Trail in Missouri or the Great Allegheny Passage/C&O Canal trail in Pennsylvania and Maryland.)  Instead it's more an amalgam of different facilities of different types that have been strung together and re-branded by state government. But the individual segments remain as individual facilities that are owned and maintained by a complex and sprawling network of state, county and local governments. Some segments may also be owned by non-profit organizations or private entities. Others can be owned by public authorities, like the NYS Bridge Authority or the Canal Corporation, which are government entities that are run by political appointees, but not directly accountable to voters. Still more segments are just roads that are usually (but not always) bike friendly. These roads might be dirt roads or paved roads, and could be under the jurisdiction of NYSDOT or a County. Or they could be a local road owned and maintained by a city, town or village.   
The Empire State Trail is a 750-mile non-motorized transportation system. But what exactly is it? 

So a good way to look at the Empire State Trail is as a jumble of independent facilities that have been put together using a unified signage system.  But even with the signs, it is unclear who maintains them given the multiple layers of ownership.  So it's good to have an idea where you are going before you head out. If you rely only on the signs and the official website, you may get lost at some point. And you may also miss out on some great places to visit, since the official trail route sometimes bypasses downtown or historic areas, and the informational kiosks you pass sometimes aren't able to display all the information you might want to know because of space constraints, regulations or jurisdictional conflicts.

We recommend that in addition to exploring the official Empire State Trail website, you begin by exploring our overview below.  A few other good resources providing an overview are this New York Times article, this Financial Times article as well as a blog article about the trail from our main website. 

SIDEBAR:  Why do New York's cities look like they do?  That's because of urban renewal!  Want to know more? Check out our blog article!

Looking for information about trail surface conditions?  Click here for the official report.

Looking for information about trail closures?  Click here for the official trail closure website.

The Hudson Valley Greenway Trail goes between New York City and Albany.  This trail goes through a diverse set of communities that really highlight this beautiful region. Sweeping views of the Hudson River await you as you visit the many cities or villages that dot the valley. You'll also pass through large, picturesque open spaces peppered with quaint hamlets as you traverse the region's towns. The Empire State Trail is mostly an off-road bike path for the 100 miles between NYC and Kingston. Between Kingston and Hudson, the route is mostly on-road, but the roads are beautiful and quiet (for the most part).  North of Hudson its mostly a trail again, but you'll still need to ride on roads in places. 

The information below is organized by county from south to north.  Each county along this route has a distinctive identity. And you can find out a lot more about the places you will be visiting by checking out County tourism websites. Each County has a lot to explore! 

Flag images are courtesy of CRW flags.  Click on each flag to learn more about it and to obtain source information about who created each image.

Hudson Valley Greenway Trail

New York County (Manhattan) and Bronx County

The southern terminus of the Empire State Trail is in Battery Park City.  This is not the southern tip of Manhattan (that is Battery Park).  Instead, Battery Park City is a development that was built atop fill that was excavated from the World Trade Center and it is run by a state-level public authority.  There is a kiosk at the starting point.

The Empire State Trail utilizes the bike path along the Hudson River that follows 12th Avenue and the West Side Highway.  This is a busy bike path with lots of vehicle crossings. While you get sweeping views on this path, you also have to pay a lot of attention to the traffic. But there's no way you will miss highlights like the USS Intrepid or the Little Red Lighthouse

The bike path ends at Dyckman Street and you will need to depend on signage and road striping to navigate your way through city streets and over a steel deck bridge to get to Van Cortlandt Park in the Bronx.  Once you are in the park, the Putnam Greenway is the next bike path segment that takes you out of the city. 
In the words of one of New York's more famous poets, the Notorious B.I.G., your experience of New York City portion of your ride might be described as "mad question askin', blunt passin', music blastin'....". You'll really get to see an up-close view of regular life in New York City as you make your way through.  Lots of cars and people, with all kinds of sights and sounds. Depending on the time of year you may smell the savory aroma of a family barbecue along the water, or hear the sound of music playing from a speaker mixed with children laughing as families get together. ​​

If you do one of our organized tours, this portion of the ride is usually led by Lukas Herbert, the owner of Gotham Bicycle Tours, since he is a licensed NYC sightseeing guide.  Commercial bicycle tours in NYC are regulated by the city and tour guides must be licensed to operate here. 

If you are doing the ride with us, Lukas may present the group with some options.  For example, the Empire State Trail isn't necessarily the best route out of the city, depending on what you want to see and experience. Other routes, such as the Bronx River Greenway, are also an option. We usually ask the group for their preference, particularly when it comes to lunch. There are plenty of great options including excellent Spanish food or a guy we know who cooks barbecue next to a self-storage building along the bike path. Best you ever tasted...

Westchester County

It's a straight shot through Westchester County once the Putnam Greenway reaches the city line with Yonkers and the trail changes name to the South County Trailway, which is operated by the Westchester County Department of Parks, Recreation and Conservation, although portions of it are also owned by NYS DOT. Later the South County Trailway becomes the North County Trailway. But even though the trailway changes name, it is continuous and you will spend most of the day riding beneath a continuous canopy of trees.  As you head north, you will also pass through horse farms and alongside some beautiful lakes and reservoirs. 
Westchester has a lot of nice options when it comes to dining and places to stay.  For our guided tours, we usually recommend to our guests that they stay the night in Yonkers since it also has great access to the Old Croton Aqueduct Trail and the Bronx River Pathway as well as the Empire State Trail.  Once the focus of a court-ordered desegregation settlement, the Yonkers of today is a beautiful mosaic of cultures from around the world. You can see this represented by all of the great restaurants the city boasts, all of them just a quick uber or cab ride from any Yonkers hotel. 

Near the northern end of Westchester County, you'll also pass through Yorktown Heights which is a great place to find services. Yorktown Heights was once a rail hub where steam engines could be turned on a turntable and have their tanks refilled with water.  But much of the old Yorktown Heights was destroyed by urban renewal and today it's mostly just shopping centers and parking lots. But there is still a lot to check out, including the historic station which is in the process of being restored!

Putnam County

When you reach the border between Westchester and Putnam Counties you may not notice since the Empire State Trail remains continuous.  However, the trail changes names to the Putnam Trailway, which is maintained by County government here.  The trail goes northeast until it ends in the Village of Brewster, the "Hub of the Harlem Valley".   Back in the day, this was were the Putnam Line of the New York Central Railroad met with the Harlem Line.  The Maybrook Line also came through Brewster as well.   But now, only the Harlem Line still has train service.  The other two lines are bike paths: the Putnam Trailway and the Maybrook Trailway.  As a cyclist, your challenge will be to figure out how to navigate the Village of Brewster to get from one trail to the other since the Empire State Trail uses both.  We have this spelled out for you in great detail if you do one of our tours.  
Brewster is also an ideal place to stay overnight or get a meal since there will be no more services for 25 miles.  So make sure you go to the bathroom in Brewster if you are just passing through!  But to get to these services you will need to be careful and pay attention since the roads in Brewster aren't set up super great for bikes. Don't expect to find any bike parking anywhere you go.  Also, if you ask a local on the street about where the bike path is, don't expect them to know. 

Brewster can also be used as a good jumping off point for bike touring on the Empire State Trail because it has a Metro-North Railroad station!  Speaking of Metro-North, that is the agency that owns the next segment of trail: the Maybrook Trailway. This trail is beautiful and remote, having been constructed alongside train tracks that pass through areas with no or few roads. It is beautifully silent, except for the sounds of nature. But there are also no restrooms, benches, garbage cans or any other amenities along the Maybrook Trail. 

If you like reading trail-side interpretive panels about local history, Putnam County has a lot of good ones. If you do a tour with us, we can give you GPS navigation that reads you 1-sentence summaries of each sign as you pass, so you know if you want to stop and read it. (We'll also give you PDF's of each sign that you can read later if you don't want to stop). 

Dutchess County

The Maybrook Trailway feels so remote that you wouldn't really know (or care) when you cross from Putnam County into Dutchess County.  Fortunately, highway-style signage has been placed at the border to clarify this. Metro-North Railroad still owns the trail here, but maintenance responsibilities have shifted to Dutchess County Government.  Near the county line, the Appalachian Trail also crosses the bike path. Then ride past a prison on your way into Hopewell Junction. There is a trailside restaurant here as well as a railroad museum that has restrooms and vending machines.  There are more stores and services in Hopewell Junction, but you'd need to go off-trail to get to them and the roads aren't super bike-friendly.  That's why when you do bike tours with us, we can deliver you a lunch!
Leaving Hopewell Junction the Empire State Trail changes again. Now it is the William R. Steinhaus Dutchess Rail Trail. A stone gateway informs you of this fact and you can read a plaque to learn more about William R. Steinhaus. There are also lots of other great informational panels along this route, and if you use our GPS service, you'll once again get summaries read to you as you pass.  The trail also becomes more suburban here, and there are plenty of benches, as well as trash cans and portable toilets in certain places. 

The William R. Steinhaus Dutchess Rail Trail goes through both the Town of Poughkeepsie and the City of Poughkeepsie. Poughkeepsie is another place that was substantially altered by urban renewal. The resulting landscape can be difficult to bike around thanks to roadway configurations designed to get people out of Poughkeepsie as quickly as possible. Most hotels are nowhere near the trail, so we provide shuttling services if you do our tours.  Poughkeepsie can also be used as a good jumping off point for bike touring on the Empire State Trail because it has a Metro-North Railroad station!  

When you leave Poughkeepsie, you will make a awe-inspiring exit as you head over the Walkway-Over-the-Hudson, which is a State park. Keep in mind, however, that since the Walkway is under the jurisdiction of the NYS Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation (NYSOPRHP), that agency establishes its own rules as to when the bridge is open.  So in cases of early or late arrival, or inclement weather, you may find the bridge closed. The Walkway also has an elevator which is the easiest way to get to the bridge from the Poughkeepsie train station. But check first to make sure the elevator is operating since it is sometimes closed. 

Ulster County

After you vault across the Hudson River on the Walkway-Over-the-Hudson, you enter Ulster County. Now you are on the Hudson Valley Rail Trail, which is owned and maintained by a non-profit organization. This trail takes you to the Village of New Paltz which is a bustling college-town filled with great restaurants. There are also a few places to stay overnight here as well. The Empire State Trail makes sure you see very little of New Paltz since the signs direct you away from downtown on series of local roads that bypass the area. This official route also bypasses the Hugenot Street historic area, which is a shame since it's so nice. If you do a tour with us, we'll show you how to check this stuff out. 
Going north from New Paltz, the Empire State Trail uses the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail, which is an unpaved (but smooth) bike path that is owned by a land trust and maintained by volunteers. This is one of the most scenic trail segments of the Empire State Trail, with the Shawgunk Ridge off to your west. You will also get to ride over the scenic Rosendale Trestle as well as past several ruins of the local cement industry. This is where the cement was manufactured to build New York City!

The Walkill Valley Rail Trail ends in the City of Kingston, which was also victimized by poorly-conceived urban renewal schemes over the years. While the City has made substantial progress in building bike-friendly facilities, some roads in Kingston can get kind of hairy for cyclists. The good news is that the Stockade Historic District never fell to the urban renewal wrecking ball and it is a lovely place to visit with great restaurants.  Kingston also has a great waterfront district, but half of that area was destroyed by a highway project. 

Kingston has several nice places to stay, but not every place is easy to bike to.  When you ride out of Kingston you'll be right along the Hudson River on a bike path and you can see a lighthouse out in the water.  This waterfront bike path, the Kingston Greenline, is the last bike path you will be on for a while. North of here its all on-road....and you are thrown right into the action when you start riding across the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge operated by the New York State Bridge Authority.  This agency has their own regulations and operates independently from NYSDOT which owns and maintains the roads leading up to the bridge. So you will need to pay attention to signs here to know how the Bridge Authority would like you to get across. 

Columbia County

When you cross the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge from Kingston, you will end up in Rhinecliff, which is actually in Dutchess County.  But you'll get to ride a great series of back roads that takes you through Bard College and past two historic estates before you enter Columbia County in the Town of Clermont.  The back roads continue, with a few scattered services along the route until you reach the City of Hudson.  Some of these roads get kind of busy, so be prepared to ride next to traffic. 
Hudson is a beautiful city filled with historic buildings, fine-dining and hotels. It's the perfect place to have a great dinner, spend the night and enjoy a beautiful riverfront park. Hudson, for the most part, was spared from many of the ill-conceived urban renewal projects that helped destroy parts of Kingston, Poughkeepsie and Yorktown Heights. But you'll still find 70's-era brutalist architecture here and there, sprinkled amongst buildings from the 19th century. 

Once again, the Empire State Trail bypasses the main drag in Hudson, forcing you to miss some of the best architecture and history if you stay on the official route. But if you do one of our tours, we'll make sure you see everything. 

North of Hudson, it's back on a bike path again as the Empire State Trail utilizes the Albany-Hudson Electric Trail. This trail is also unpaved, but it is relatively smooth. You'll also pass through a number of towns where you can get food and services. 

Rensselaer County

Eventually the Albany-Hudson Electric Trail moves north and smacks into the Berkshire Extension of the New York State Thruway. At this point you move into Rensselaer County and you ride along the Thruway for some time on a separated bike path.  Then the trail heads into more suburban areas as you approach the City of Rensselaer, "the Home of Yankee Doodle".  Eventually the trail ends at a road crossing and then the Empire State Trail is all on-street until you get to the bridge that takes you to Albany on the other side of the river. 
The City of Rensselaer is a popular end-point for many of our riders because the Albany Amtrak station is located here. (It is located in Rensselaer and NOT in Albany....).  You can bike right to the station, load your bike on the train, and head in any direction. The station, however, isn't immediately near any businesses, hotels or restaurants. So your choices are limited to the stuff inside the train station, a Dunkin Donuts and a kielbasa/hot dog truck next to an overpass. We recommend the hot dog truck - it is high quality. 

Albany County

To get to Albany, you have to ride across the Hudson River on a highway bridge that has a sidewalk. When you get to the Albany side you will be atop an elevated highway interchange that cars use to fly into the mother ship of all of New York's misguided urban renewal projects: Empire State Plaza. The plaza is a state government office and cultural complex built atop this highway interchange and parking. Many, many blocks of existing neighborhoods were ripped out to make way for the plaza.  And now it is here for you to enjoy.  It's fun to ride your bike around the plaza.  It looks like modern art. 
The Empire State Trail doesn't go through Empire State Plaza.  So without any guidance, by following the signs you would be shunted to the Mohawk Hudson Bike Hike Trail which is between the waterfront and the interstate highway that got built along the waterfront. Once you get to Watervliet, you will be on-street again, but sometimes in bike lanes. Then you will pass under a highway and go through an industrial park.  It is here where the three branches of the Empire State Trail meet!
The information below is organized by county from south to north.  Each county along this route has a distinctive identity. And you can find out a lot more about the places you will be visiting by checking out County tourism websites. Each County has a lot to explore! 

Flag images are courtesy of CRW flags.  Click on each flag to learn more about it and to obtain source information about who created each image.

Champlain Valley Trail

The Champlain Valley Trail goes between Albany and the Canadian border at Rouses Point. At Rouses Point it connects to the Velo Quebec system, which is a network of bike routes and trails across the province.  The Champlain Valley Trail relies more on on-road segments than the Erie Canalway Trail or the Hudson River Greenway Trail, often making use of the on-road NYS Bike Route 9 for substantial distances.  NYS Bike Route 9 was established more than 20 years ago by NYSDOT and pre-dates the Empire State Trail. 

Even though the Champlain Valley Trail is a mix of off-road pathways and on-road bike routes, it is incredibly scenic and enjoyable. The southern portion of the trail includes all of the off-road trail segments, which are a delightful and quiet ride.  On-road segments can be busy with a lot of traffic. This is mostly the case north of Whitehall, where you are using NYS Bike Route 9 exclusively for the rest of the trip. 

Albany County

If you are starting your trip on the Champlain Valley Trail in downtown Albany, then you'll need to head north on the Mohawk Hudson Bike Hike Trail which is squeezed between the waterfont and an interstate highway. You'll need to figure out how to get across the highway to get to the bike path.  Fortuntately, there is now a good deal of signage helping you do this. 
The Empire State Trail continues on the Mohawk Hudson Bike Hike Trail for 7 miles, but then you will need to bike on roads for two miles. These roads, which connect Watervliet and Green Island, are best attempted by experienced cyclists comfortable riding next to vehicle traffic.  But once you are in Green Island, the route becomes an off-road bike path again that heads directly to Peebles Island State Park which is a nice place to check out, with historic buildings and waterfront picnic areas. 

Saratoga County

As you make your way through Peebles Island State Park, you will cross over into Saratoga County, since Peebles Island is in the middle of the Mohawk River where it confluences with the Hudson River.  The Erie Canal starts here too, with the first set of locks being located in Waterford, which is just across the river from Peebles Island.  The Empire State Trail uses local streets to navigate through Waterford, but it will not take you past the canal locks unless you know to make a detour.
Soon you will enter the Champlain Calway Trail, which is a lovely stonedust surface trail that runs for 5.5 miles next to the old Champlain Canal which is no longer in use. When the trail ends, you will need to ride on NYS Bike Route 9 (see below) for 19 miles until you get to Schuylerville.  This is on-street riding on a road with shoulders/bike lanes and signs that say "bike route".  Once you are in Schuylerville you are back on a stonedust path for just over a mile while you ride along another section of old canal. Then you cross to the other side of the Hudson River and enter Washington County. 

If you want to bike to Saratoga Springs, you can leave the Empire State Trail when you get to Mechanicville and use the Zim Smith trail which takes you to Ballston Spa.  From there it is only a few miles of on-street riding to get to Saratoga Spa State Park which has bike paths that will connect you to the rest of the City of Saratoga Springs.   You can make a nice detour by going this way and then rejoining the Empire State Trail in Schuylerville.

Washington County

Once you cross the Hudson River you will be on some very quiet roads that go right along the river in Washington County. It's beautiful and quiet. The only sounds you will hear arethe rushing rapids of the river and the sound of your tires crunching on the dirt roads you will sometimes be riding. When you get to Fort Miller, it will be back on NYS Bike Route 9 for about 6 more miles until you reach Fort Edward.
Fort Edward has an Amtrak station and it is the last stop in New York along the Empire State Trail for the Ethan Allen Express which makes daily runs between NYC and Rutland, Vermont. It is also where the last off-road bike path segment of the Empire State Trail begins. This is a lovely 12-mile stretch of quiet riding along both the historic and modern Champlain Canals that takes you to Fort Ann.  Just north of Fort Edward, there is also an opportunity to take another bike path that heads into Hudson Falls and Glens Falls. In Glens Falls you can connect to Warren County's larger bike route system and ride directly to Million Dollar Beach on Lake George. 

If you do not turn off to go to Lake George, the ride to byond Fort Ann is enjoyable. It will be one last quiet stretch of back roads that ends with a beautiful vista of moutains behind a huge meadow and a state prison (Great Meadow Prison) . Turn left at the prison and you will be back on NYS Bike Route 9 until you reach the Canadian border at Rouses Point. 

NYS Bike Route 9

NYS Bike Route 9 was one of the first statewide signed bike routes to be implemented by NYSDOT.  This was done in the late 1990's, and since that time, many other state bike routes have been added to the system.  In general, State Bike Routes only follow roads under NYSDOT jurisdiction unless intermunicipal agreements (IMA's) are worked out between NYSDOT and the County, City, Town or Village that has jurisdiction over a particular road.  The bike route numbers reference the generalized corridor on which a bike route goes on.  So for example, NYS Bike Route 9 generally follows the U.S. Route 9 corridor, but it occasionally uses other roads such as Route 9D, Route 22 or Route 4, etc. In general, when designating a state bike route, NYSDOT looks for roads with at least 4 feet of shoulder width, where available. 
The Empire State Trail has an on-again, off-again relationship with NYS Bike Route 9, particularly on the Champlain Valley Trail. While the Empire State Trail route sometimes uses the NYS Bike Route 9 route for on-road segments, it doesn't do this always.  So sometimes the routes are the same, but sometimes they are different. 

North of the Great Meadow Prison, the Empire State Route is all NYS Bike Route 9.  This route is recommended only for experienced cyclists who are comfortable riding next to vehicle and truck traffic. 
The Erie Canalway trail runs between Albany and Buffalo along the route of the Erie Canal. 

It is important to understand that the Erie Canal has been altered substantially since the time it was opened in 1825 by Governor DeWitt Clinton (the last Mayor of NYC to ever be elected as Governor!)  As ship sizes and traffic grew, the canal was enlarged and the number of locks reduced. Finally by 1918, the canal had been converted to the "Barge Canal" which was part of a larger system that included the Champlain Canal, the Oswego Canal and the Cayuga and Seneca Canal.  This canal system still operates today after more than 100 years!

The Erie Canalway Trail generally follows the route of the Erie Canal corridor and sometimes follows alongside the Barge Canal and sometimes follows along the route of the old canal, where you can see the remains of the old locks up close (and even bike through them).  Often times, you are riding close to both. 

Erie Canalway Trail

In addition to seeing the canal itself, a bike tour along the Empire State Trail will take you through a number of New York's cities, towns and villages that were once important stops on the Erie Canal. Cities such as Schenectady, Amsterdam, Utica, Rome, Syracuse, Rochester and Buffalo line the canal and are still major hubs of population today. There is a lot to explore when you ride this trail.  Our trip planning services will help ensure you don't miss any of the highlights 

Erie County - 39 miles

This is the place this whole canal system was named for: Lake Erie.  Erie County, and it's largest city Buffalo, is New York's gateway to the nation's interior. And the Erie Canal brought wealth and propserity to this region to the extent where Buffalo became one of America's most important cities.  If you are arriving in Buffalo, you should take a little time to bike around and explore. There are many architectural highlights as well as beautiful open spaces and parks. The City also recently started redeveloping its waterfront which unfortunately is still underneath a massive elevated highway called the Buffalo Skyway, with public attractions and the Canalside area.  The waterfront area also has several historic ships as well as a section of the Erie Canal that was unearthed after sewage pipes were diverted. 
​​“Mile Zero” of the Empire State Trail is in Buffalo Harbor State Park, located south of downtown along Lake Erie. The Empire State Trail uses the Shoreline Trail for its entire duration in the City of Buffalo as well as north of the City along the Niagara River in the Town of Tonawanda. The Shoreline Trail is generally an off-road facility that often parallels streets. However, on-road segments are used to fill in gaps. In downtown Buffalo, there are opportunities to get off of the trail and explore historic sites in the Canalside district or downtown. The Buffalo Exchange Street Amtrak station is also located a short distance from the Shoreline Trail. There are also a number of smaller, more local trails that connect to the Shoreline Trail that take you to islands or other shoreline features within Lake Erie or the Niagara River. 

The Shoreline trail is approximately 17 miles long from Buffalo Harbor State Park to Main Street in the City of Tonawanda.  Here, the Shoreline Trail crosses into Niagara County and continues along the Niagara River for another 13 miles to Niagara Falls. However, the Empire State Trail turns east and runs along the Erie Canal using trails owned and maintained by the Towns of Tonawanda and Amherst. This section of the Erie Canal is  also known as Tonawanda Creek and is the waterway that contains the canal. The trail goes along the creek as an off-road path, or utilizing lower-traffic on-road segments. The trail then crosses Tonawanda Creek and exits Erie County. 

Niagara County - 20 miles

You enter Niagara County after crossing Tonawanda Creek and into the Town of Pendleton. It is here that the Erie Canal heads north, away from Tonawanda Creek which had been the canal’s alignment since Lake Erie. For 6 miles the canal gradually descends into the “Deep Cut”, which is a highly engineered section of the canal, before it heads into its first set of locks in the City of Lockport.  This is where the famous “Flight of Five” is located. When originally constructed, the Erie Canal had twin sets of five locks to move boats up and down the Niagara Escarpment, which is the geological feature that forms Niagara Falls. 
While one of the original flights is still here, the other was replaced by the modern Lock 34 and Lock 35, a flight of two massive canal locks that sit next to the original Flight of Five.  You can get up close to these locks and learn about their history. Lockport is also the County seat of Niagara County and you can check out the historic courthouse, half of which was drastically altered by building addition that was not sensitive to the original design.

As you descend along the bike path next to the locks, you will begin a long stretch of the Erie Canalway Trail that is owned and maintained by the NYS Canal Corporation. For the next 65 miles, there will be no locks, and you will be riding directly along the canal. After Lockport, you will pass Gasport and Middleport before exiting Niagara County.

Orleans County - 26 miles

The entire ride through Orleans County is on a stone-dust surfaced trail owned and maintained by the NYS Canal Corporation and you are riding directly alongside the modern Barge Canal. You may occasionally share the path with Canal Corporation maintenance vehicles as they go about their business working to maintain the canal which is still open (seasonally) to boats. Depending on the time of year, you may see many boats plying the canal and taking harbor in the various villages you will pass through.
Although Orleans County is very rural, as you ride east you will pass through three distinct villages: Medina, Albion and Holley. In the early days of the canal, this area was active with the quarrying of Mediana Sandstone, which was used as a building material locally, as well as throughout the state, since the canal was use to transport this commodity. Medina Sandstone was used to construct many buildings in Buffalo and it was also used to construct the Brooklyn Bridge as well as portions of Buckingham Palace in London. Medina, Albion and Holley are each worth a stop to check out the local architecture. In addition, Medina boasts the Medina Railroad Museum as well as perhaps the longest stretch of beautiful stone buildings in the area. Music is played from outdoor speakers along Main Street to add to the ambiance. In Albion, there are more historic buildings, including its Greek Revival County courthouse with its large gray dome. Albion was also home to the Original Santa School, where department store Santas were once trained. Albion is also the location where many of the Canal Corporation’s maintenance boats are stored. Holley is also unique in that it was once the location where a large bend was located in the original Erie Canal. The canal was eventually made straight as part of the Barge Canal construction, and the remnants of the old canal were converted into the Andrew Cuomo Canalway Trail which is worth a short detour.

The topography of Orleans County meant that the Erie Canal needed to be constructed using large embankments, and you can get nice views of two waterfalls that are adjacent to the canal in Medina and Holley. The canal’s only road culvert is also located in the unincorporated Town of Ridgeway, just east of the Village of Medina. This is the only place along the entire canal where you can drive a car underneath the canal. It was recognized by Ripley’s Believe it or Not!

Monroe County - 40 miles

Monroe County is home to Rochester, which is the fourth largest city in New York State, surrounded by a sprawling suburban area that ecompasses most of the county. You will see the environment gradually change as you begin to encounter more frequent and larger villages along the trail, most of which offer a lot more services than you will find in the adjacent counties. Many of these villages were major industrial hubs in the 19th century, but they are now home to suburban bedroom communities or major institutions such as SUNY Brockport.
The trail follows the alignment of the Barge Canal throughout its entire journey through Monroe County. Although the original canal alignment once went through the heart of downtown Rochester, the Barge Canal was designed to bypass New York’s major cities’ downtown areas, and as a result, the bike path does not go into downtown Rochester. Instead, the trail skirts the southern edge of the Flower City, and here the path becomes asphalt paved. For the first 7 miles the path is also located immediately next to the “Outer Loop” expressway, which means the roads surrounding the trail are very busy and services can be hard to access unless you want to ride on busy roads. However, as you move around the city to the south, the Erie Canal crosses the Genesee River at a unique 4-way intersection of waterbodies. Here, amidst a beautiful urban park designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, you can switch to the Genesee Riverway Trail which will take you directly to downtown without the need to ride on any roads. If you have the time, it is worth going into downtown (or perhaps stay there overnight), since it will give you a good understanding of how this city’s urban fabric was formed around both the canal and a series of waterfalls that once provided power to build Rochester’s industrial might. We also recommend you check out this video which shows how Rochester adapted (or failed to adapt) after the canal was relocated and the city began focusing on highway construction and urban renewal. 

As you keep heading east you will eventually escape the boundaries of the Outer Loop and head into a series of delightful villages with attractive waterfronts directly along the canal, such as Pittsford and Fairport. In addition, Bushnell’s Basin, a hamlet in an unincorporated portion of the Town of Perinton, boasts the oldest original inn on the Erie Canal. You can still get a meal there, just like you could in the heyday of the canal. 

Wayne County - 40 miles

Things get noticeably quieter as you continue east and cross into Wayne County. You are back to mostly unpaved trail surfaces, with a number of small on-road detours in between off-road trail segments.  And although you will pass through downtown village centers approximately every 8 miles in Wayne County, most of the business districts are very small and may not have everything you are looking for. But with a little planning, you can get everything you need if you know where to stop.
One thing Wayne County has no short supply of is historic sites. While the Canalway Trail generally follows the route of the Barge Canal, this route is often almost the same as the earlier canal alignments. This means you will pass many older lock structures as you pass through Wayne County and you will also get a chance to bike over a historic stone aqueduct as well as under an old iron switch bridge, which once allowed mules to cross the canal when the towpath changed sides.  There are also two downtown areas that have most of their original historic buildings intact: Palmyra and Lyons. Both are worth a quick detour to enjoy their architecture. Palmyra also has local history museums as well as several pilgrimage sites for the Church of Latter Day Saints. (Some of these sites are located to the south in unincorporated portions of the Town of Palmyra or in the Town of Manchester in Ontario County). Lyons is the county seat and has another domed Greek Revival courthouse next to a public square surrounded by historic buildings. 

The eastern end of Wayne County has a lot of road riding, as the barge canal veers to the south through the swamplands of the Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge. However, the tiny Village of Clyde offers one last stop before you hit the road with its quaint village green and small cluster of businesses. The roads can be quiet since there is not a lot of big traffic here.  Often the most noticeable sounds come from the railroad, which is a near constant presence. The trains go fast here…because they make no stops!

Seneca County - 2 miles, Cayuga County - 12 miles

Both of the two miles you ride in Seneca County will be on the road shoulder of Route 31 as it passes through the swampy lands associated with confluence of the Clyde River and the Seneca River. Both of these rivers were canalized to form portions of barge canal systems for the Erie Canal and the Cauyga-Seneca Canal, and the location of their confluence is within the Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge. The New York State Thruway slices through the wildlife refuge and was constructed atop the former alignment of the old Erie Canal. This means there was nothing left to convert to a bike path and that is why you are riding on Route 31 until you get to Port Byron in Cayuga County.

Port Byron was once a bustling village that was home to historical figures, such as Brigham Young. The village declined however after the original Erie Canal route was abandoned in favor of the Barge Canal.  Then the Thruway was mashed through, immediately adjacent to the Village’s old canal lock. In recent years, the Thruway Authority conducted an off-ramp so that Thruway motorists could stop and visit this  lock complex that they otherwise would have blown right past. You can also visit this highway-oriented visitors center on your bike.

On the eastern edge of the village, the old Erie Canal alignment was not destroyed and the bike path starts up again along the towpath of the old canal. It stays like this until you get to the Village of Weedsport, where Route 31 was constructed above the alignment of the old canal. What was once another bustling canal village is now a strip of car-oriented businesses with proximity to Exit 40 on the Thruway. As soon as you leave Weedsport, the bike path starts up again and it is a nice finish to your ride in Cayuga County. 

Since the ride through these two counties is mostly on-road, some cyclists like to add on a little side excursion to the location of the former Village of Seneca Falls, which was dissolved back into the unincorporated Town of Seneca Falls in 2012. This was the site of the Seneca Falls Convention in 1848 which was the first women’s rights convention. The former village was also believed to have been the inspiration for the town of Bedford Falls in It’s a Wonderful Life. While that movie was filmed entirely in Hollywood, there is still a museum about the movie in Seneca Falls as well as a festival that is held every December. And of course there is also the Women’s Rights National Historical Park as well as the National Women’s Hall of Fame

Onondaga County - 36 miles

Onondaga County is one of the nicest parts of the Erie Canalway trail because of an exceptional combination of of bike path connectivity, historic sites (and beautiful historic restorations) and scenic diversity.  Onondaga County packs in a lot to see for its 36 miles including several aqueducts, canal museums, industrial sites, and a beautiful lakefront as you cycle along a route that generally follows the Enlarged Canal. In some places, the canal was filled in, perhaps to build a new road, or with garbage as a landfill. But in those cases, connections are made using beautiful, well-designed bike paths.  There is even a bike path that will take you in the middle of a highway median. (The highway was built over the canal).
Just as the original and Enlarged Canal went directly through downtown Syracuse, the Empire State Trail also does this. You enter downtown from the shores of Onondaga Lake using a wonderful urban bike path called the Creekwalk. It’s narrow and windy, but it showcases the industrial past of Syracuse. In downtown you are immediately greeted by Clinton Square, one of our favorite public open spaces in the state.  This was the focal point of the canal in Syracuse and the plaza helps you envision what the canal may have looked like. You can also easily stop by the Erie Canal Museum where there is more to experience. When you add in all of the downtown restaurants and hotels Syracuse ends up being an ideal stop on the trail.

East of downtown Syracuse the route of the Enlarged Canal was destroyed to allow for the construction of Erie Boulevard. Fortunately, this road has an excellent bike path. Once you pass over I-481, you break free of the highway noise and you are riding in the exceptionally peaceful Old Erie Canal State Historic Park.  This is a largely unbroken stretch of riding adjacent to the Enlarged Canal as you bike across the highest elevation on the trail: the Rome Summit Level, 
between Syracuse and Rome.

Madison County - 15 miles

All 15 miles of the Erie Canalway Trail in Madison County are within Old Erie Canal State Historic Park, and you continue to ride directly alongside the Enlarged Canal on its progress across the Rome Summit Level. This is the flattest and highest portion of the original canal route, which was why it was constructed first.  Although there are no canal locks here, many aqueducts needed to be constructed. And the canal villages of Chittenango and Canastota boomed with industry and wealth. But that all changed when the Barge Canal was routed through Oneida Lake, 15 miles to the north.
Fortunately, much of the original canal infrastructure remains for you to observe, including at the Chittenango Canal Boat Museum and the Canastota Canal Town Museum. Madison County also  has one of the highest densities of informational signage compared to other counties.  If you stopped and read all of them, it would take you forever. But maybe that’s reason enough to take your time. Or if you have us plan your tour for you, our GPS will read you summaries of all 31 signs as you pass them and you can read them later at your convenience on your phone. 

Because the ride through Madison County is so rural, you will need to carefully plan your stops. Services are few and far between. It’s peaceful and quiet, although car and truck noise from the Thruway occasionally becomes a presence. 

Oneida County - 37 miles

The Erie Canal plays a prominent role in Oneida County, and that can be seen on the County's flag.  Even though the trail takes you through the outskirts of the City of Oneida, you are not in Oneida County until you leave the City of Oneida (which is located in Madison County) and enter the Town of Verona. The first 15 miles are very rural, with few services, as you finish the final stretch through Old Erie Canal State Historic Park.  This trail is beautiful and continuous until you reach the City of Rome where the trail ends and you need to use local streets to navigate through the city. Rome, however, has several highlights including Fort Stanwix National Monument as well as several historic buildings made out of brick. This brick construction influenced urban renewal developments in the city that are also made out of brick.
Rome is located at the headwaters of the Mohawk River and that is why it had strategic importance during colonial times. But it was also the starting point for the construction of the Erie Canal due to its location at the canal’s summit. As you head east from Rome, it is mostly a continuous bike path again along the old canal, and then later along the Barge Canal as you approach the City of Utica. The trail does not go directly into downtown, but rather it passes through the Utica Marsh Wildlife Management Area, which is along the canal, in between the city and the NYS Thruway.  You can exit the trail at Genesee Street to access downtown Utica with its beautiful architecture and wonderfully restored train station. Utica also boasts several great restaurants and has plenty of accommodations for overnight stays. You can also connect with the Adirondack Scenic Railroad at the beautifully restored Utica train station for a scenic trip into the mountains. This station also has Amtrak service as well as a NYS Department of Motor Vehicles office.

Herkimer County - 36 miles

When you exit the City of Utica heading east, you also exit Oneida County and you enter Herkimer County. Herkimer is an oddly shaped county, long and thin, with the southern part encompassing the Mohawk Valley and the northern part extending far into the Adirondack Mountains. Some people have compared its shape to Abraham Lincoln’s head (with top hat) and a gerrymandered State Senate district from the 2000’s was dubbed “Abraham Lincoln riding on a vacuum cleaner” by the League of Women Voters because it included Herkimer County where Lincoln’s head would be.
The Erie Canal corridor through Herkimer County is one of the narrowest sections since it passes just south of the Adirondacks. Unfortunately this means the noise of the NYS Thruway is never far away. But it also means you will pass a number of dramatic views. There are also several historic sites as well as a series of villages along the river that offer a perspective of the industries that once flourished here as well as the industries that remain. Passing through Ilion, you can see the Remington Arms gun factory which continues to manufacture guns. They have a museum as well. In the Village of Herkimer and the City of Little Falls, there are many examples of historic architecture as well as modernist urban renewal construction that was once intended as an effort towards revitalization. Each place you pass has services to keep you on your way. 

Little Falls also has a nice marina right on the water that is only a short detour from the main part of the trail, as well as access to both historic and modern lock structures.  A small canal that was once located here around the rapids in the Mohawk River actually predates the Erie Canal. But it was destroyed when the Barge Canal was constructed. Learn all about it from the great interpretive signs that are along the trail.  The Herkimer Home State Historic Site in the Town of Danube is also worth a visit as you make your way towards the eastern end of the county. This is where General Nicholas Herkimer once lived during the Revloutonary War.

Montgomery County - 41 miles

The narrowness of the Mohawk Valley continues as you head east through Montgomery County. For much of the time here, you will be riding on a paved rail trail that is very close to the Thruway. Although the noise of cars and trucks may be somewhat persistent during your trip through Montgomery County, there is also the opportunity to enjoy wide-open views of the Mohawk River and the canal locks and villages that dot its banks. Services in some areas can be sparse, and may require a short detour from the trail, particularly in cases where former canal settlements were wiped out by the construction of the Thruway. But there are also opportunities to explore interesting historic sites such as Schoharie Crossing State Historic Site, just off the trail.
The City of Amsterdam is the largest municipality you will pass through during your time in Montgomery County. While a magnificent pedestrian/bike bridge was recently constructed to take you across the Mohawk River into downtown, much of the landscape here is dominated by railroad tracks and highway ramps making it difficult to bike around. There is, however an Amtrak station on very edge of the city which is a useful amenity. Amsterdam also has an interesting hotel called Amsterdam Castle which is located inside a renovated armory. After Amsterdam its a straight shot down the bike path to Pattersonville, which is the next place of interest, although it is in Schenectady County. 

Schenectady County - 22 miles

When you cross into Schenectady County from the west, the jurisdictional change is more apparent beause the trail changes name. It’s still the Empire State Trail, but the local segment in Schenectady County is known as the Mohawk-Hudson Bike-Hike Trail (MHBHT), whereas the trail you had been riding on before had been called the Erie Canalway Trail. This change happens when you cross Route 5S in Pattersonville. 
The MHBHT is a beautiful paved rail-trail that goes directly into downtown Albany (with some on-road segments in Albany County as discussed below). But first you’ll get to bike through Schenectady County’s largest city, which is the City of Schenectady, the home of General Electric as well as a hub for railroad manufacturing back in the days of steam.  While General Electric still maintains a presence in the city, a large amount of former industrial acreage has been remediated and re-developed along the Mohawk River. In addition, there is also the beautifully restored Proctors Theater, a robust restaurant scene and the historic Stockade District. As you leave the city, The trail continues along the Mohawk River, often with sweeping views and access points to Barge Canal locks.

Albany County - 11 miles

The Mohawk-Hudson Bike-Hike Trail (MHBHT) more or less continues in Albany County as it did in Schenectady County, as an asphalt surfaced rail-trail that progresses through the Town of Colonie. But as you pass beneath the twin spans of the Thaddeus Kosciuszko Bridge that carry the Adirondack Northway (Interstate 87) over the Mohawk River, you will begin your approach to the Hudson River. Soon, you will be riding through the City of Cohoes with an opportunity to go off the trail to view Cohoes Falls. The Mohawk River (and Erie Canal) confluence with the Hudson River and the Champlain Canal at Peebles Island State Park just outside of the City of Cohoes (and Albany County) in the Village of Waterford in Saratoga County. It's a worthwhile detour.
Otherwise, the off-road portion of the MHBHT ends at the south end of Cohoes. From here the MHBHT uses an on-street route through the Town/Village of Green Island. You will need to cross a highway at a signalized intersection and then the trail ends unceremoniously in an industrial park.  But you can keep cycling along the MHBHT as it takes an on-street route through Green Island, eventually becoming an off-road path again into downtown Albany. 

The modern Barge Canal ends (or begins) in the Village of Waterford where the Champlain Canal also begins. But the old Erie Canal used to go right into downtown Albany. Those stretches of canal are long gone, having been filled in to construct the waterfront highway that efficiently whisks you into Empire State Plaza. But interpretive signage along the MHBHT tells the story of the canal that was once here. Downtown Albany also has a lot to explore.